The Four Things That Decide Hair Quality
1. Whether the Hair Has Been Chemically Processed
Hair that has never been permed, dyed or chemically treated keeps its natural strength and shine. Chemically processed hair can look great on day one but loses its life faster.
2. Whether the Cuticles Run in One Direction
Every strand has a cuticle layer, like the scales on a fish. When all strands run root to tip in the same direction, the hair moves smoothly and resists tangling. Mixed-direction hair tangles and mats.
3. How Much Short Hair Has Been Removed
Natural hair contains strands of many lengths. The more short strands are removed, the fuller the ends look and the higher the cost.
4. Where the Hair Comes From
Origin affects thickness, natural texture, color and how well the hair takes bleach.
Virgin vs Remy vs Raw Hair at a Glance
| Grade | Chemically processed? | Cuticles aligned? | Typical lifespan with care | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Non-Remy | Often | No, cuticles removed or mixed | Months | Budget products |
| Remy | Sometimes | Yes | 6 to 12 months | Extensions, mid-range wigs |
| Virgin | No | Yes | 1 to 2 years | Wigs and bundles for most markets |
| Raw | No chemical processing; natural pattern, or curls steam-set and labeled as set | Yes, from a single donor or small group | 2 years and more | Premium brands and luxury lines |
These grades are not separate boxes. Virgin and raw describe processing, Remy describes cuticle direction, and single or double drawn describes how many short hairs are removed. One bundle can be raw, Remy and double drawn at the same time.
Lifespans depend on how the hair is worn, washed and styled.
What Grade Does to Price
Grade is the biggest single price step in a quote. As a market reference, typical wholesale ranges for an 18" 13x4 HD lace front at 180% are about US$85 to 150 in virgin hair and US$160 to 300 in raw Vietnamese or Cambodian hair (ex-works China, as of 2026; not our price list). Double drawn adds to either. The full table by wig type is in how much do wholesale wigs cost; for our price on your spec, send it for a quote.
Virgin Hair
Virgin hair has never been dyed, permed or chemically treated. The cuticles are intact and aligned. It is the standard for quality wigs and bundles and the right choice for most brands. Virgin hair can be bleached and colored by the buyer and is often steam-processed into textures like body wave or deep wave.
Remy Hair
Remy describes how hair is collected and kept: cuticles aligned in one direction from root to tip. Remy hair may have been colored or processed, so not all Remy hair is virgin. It is widely used for hair extensions, especially in blonde and fashion colors.
Raw Hair
Raw hair is collected and cleaned, but not dyed, bleached or chemically treated. In its natural state it keeps its own pattern, whether straight, wavy or curly, and its natural color variation. Across the industry, curl patterns sold on raw hair, such as body wave, pixie curl or egg curl, are usually steam-set on the raw hair. We label these as set textures on the invoice, and our checklist shows how to tell if raw hair is really raw. Raw hair often comes from a single donor or a small group of donors from the same region, so it behaves consistently and lasts the longest. It is the choice for luxury brands that can charge for it.
Non-Remy Hair
Non-Remy hair is gathered without keeping cuticles aligned. To stop tangling, the cuticle is often stripped with acid and coated with silicone. It looks shiny at first but tangles once the coating washes off. We don't produce non-Remy human hair products.
Single and Double Drawn Hair
| Single drawn | Double drawn | |
|---|---|---|
| Short hair removed | Some, roughly 40–50% full length | Most, roughly 70–80% full length |
| Look | Fuller at the root, thinner at the ends | Thick from top to bottom |
| Price | Lower | Higher |
| Popular in | US, UK, salons that blend leave-out | West Africa, luxury brands, bone straight |
For how drawing is done and when double drawn is worth the cost, read Is Double Drawn Hair Worth It?
Hair Origins
| Origin | Character | Popular for |
|---|---|---|
| Vietnamese | Thick, strong, naturally straight or slightly wavy | Double drawn, bone straight, raw bundles |
| Cambodian | Soft, naturally wavy, lightweight | Raw wavy textures, luxury lines |
| Indian | Fine to medium, naturally wavy to curly | Raw curly, temple hair, versatile styles |
| Burmese | Coarse, naturally curly | Raw curly textures |
| Chinese | Very thick, straight, strong | Hair systems, straight extensions |
| Brazilian and Peruvian style | Medium thickness, soft body | Virgin wigs and bundles for the US market |
"Brazilian" and "Peruvian" are mainly used in the market as style names, describing weight and texture. The actual origin of the hair you buy is written on your quote and invoice.
What About Grades Like 10A and 12A?
These labels are marketing terms with no agreed definition. One factory's 12A can be another factory's 9A. Instead of asking for a number, ask your supplier:
- Is the hair virgin, Remy or raw?
- Is it single drawn or double drawn?
- What is the actual origin?
- Can it be bleached to 613 and still feel soft?
- Can I see a sample before I order?
We answer each of those in writing on the quote.
Further Reading
- Signs of Low-Quality Hairhow to spot coated, mixed-cuticle or short-filled bundles.
- What Does 10A, 12A or 15A Hair Mean?why grade numbers don't tell you the grade.
Origins
- Raw Vietnamese vs Cambodian vs Indian Hairhow each origin feels, holds a pattern and sells.
Tests
- How to Tell if Raw Hair Is Really Rawa factory checklist for raw claims.
Processing
- Single Drawn vs Double Drawn Hairwhat drawing costs and when it is worth it.
Virgin vs Remy vs Raw Hair FAQ
Which grade should I start with?
Virgin Remy is the safest choice for most brands. Add raw hair for a premium line once your clients are established.
Can I test different grades before ordering?
Yes. Our comparison kit includes samples of each grade so you can compare them side by side.
Do you label hair as 10A or 12A?
We describe hair by its real grade, origin and processing. If your market expects grade numbers, we can discuss labeling with you.
Need Help Choosing?
Our Hair Grade Comparison Kit puts different grades in your hands so you can feel the difference and match each grade to your price points.